2020 Big Truck across the Upper Peninsula, Day 12

Day 12 began with another scenic jaunt to the visitors center to try to catch up on the blog and reconnect with the outside world. You can see from this pic what effect the rising water levels of Superior are having on the coastline. It has gotten so bad that there is a $13M proposal on the table to relocate the highway further inland if the current measures prove ineffective.  

My office. The WiFi router is about 4 feet away on the other side of this wall.

Based on the signal strength, I believe this is the setup.

After yesterday's jampacked day of activities, today was mostly a travel day, as we turn toward home and head to Fayette Historic State Park.

We took a bit of a meandering route as I wanted to explore the southwestern portion of the UP, where every town is named after Iron. Ironwood, Iron River, Iron Mountain - where, coincidentally, if you have watched more than 1 minute of Detroit Lions football (Superbowl champs 2021), you perhaps have heard ELEVENTY BILLION TIMES that Tom Izzo and Steve Mariucci were childhood friends that grew up on the mean streets of Iron Mountain.

Neither coach has ever shyed away from a camera, so I knew that we were in for a barrage of memorabilia as we chose our lunch stop in the heart of Iron Mountain.

First telltale sign - Spartan S on the entryway.

Front desk - the only known photo in existence of Izzo not crying or berating a referee:

Once we were seated, we perused the menu and were reminded that this town is minutes from the Wisconsin border.

I give you - the Combination Junk Basket.

The next few hours did anything but fly by. The ensuing gutrot and sleepiness that followed the fryer basket dipped in ranch was tough to battle through, but eventually we were greeted by this, after shedding the momentary cell coverage in nearby Escanaba for zero bars and a return to 1989.

We set up camp on our 13'x16' site after trying to understand the interesting layout of the campground (I know what these campers will love - let's have the sites facing each other and put the firepits 6 feet from each other because all travelers will instantly become best friends!), then attempted the 'path to the beach' only to find out that since the water was 4 feet higher than normal, that path now included a 200 yard walk through the lake across jagged rocks. So far, off to a good start.

We trudged back to the campsite, jumped in the Jeep, and drove the mile & a half to get to the beach 200 yards from our site. After walking to the first beach stairway to find it closed for repair, we just laughed and accepted what today had become. We relocated to the south end of the parking lot to attempt another beach entrance, when we walked past the widowmaker of playground equipment from our youth.

Kimberly and I witnessed several kids get crippled on a set of monkey bars very similar to this back in '78, when an open head wound was treated by Mrs. Blouwkamp by applying a stick of butter to it. We told Jordan to wait until she was covered in water and sand before she could play on it to maximize the experience.

The glorious and successful entrance to the beach via staircase #2.

The picturesque reveal, only to realize the water was perhaps 41 degrees and the bottom of the lake included a 20' band of sharpened rocks to traverse while you approached hypothermia.

Once we actually acclimated, we resigned ourselves to the fact that we would make the best of this place and chalk today up to a travel day.

Along that line of thinking, and since we had no cell signal or map, we decided to go for a bit of a drive and see what there was to be seen.

We arrived at this little gem, tucked away on a little residential side street with a beautiful view of the bay and a single parking place to take in said view.

Exhausted from the day, we made our way back to the site, people-watched for a while as every new camping family arrived and attempted to navigate the tiny, peculiarly oriented sites. It is a fascinating social experiment to watch people who clearly have no interest in social interaction feign politeness while simultaneously pretending their new neighbors do not exist.

Our solution - focus on the campfire, laugh about today's misadventures, and come up with a loose plan for the next day.

Tomorrow - Big Spring and a return to Manistique, a frequent business travel destination (seriously) for Kimberly in a previous job.

2020 Big Truck across the Upper Peninsula, Day 11

Day 11 started with 2 simple goals. Visit the Lake of the Clouds, which was just 7 miles up the road from us, and find a decent, somewhat sandy beach for the afternoon, as the high was forecast to be mid-80s. The morning looked quite promising as I made my daily trek to the visitors center to snag enough wifi to write this and check on the outside world. 

I imagine living up here (with any sort of Verizon-based device) must feel like our childhood in the late 70s. No calling ahead to check on availability, hours, etc. Just drive to the location, see if the doors are open, and if not, try to find a paper map since you can't search anything to find directions. It's a bit of a welcome change and a good throwback to teach Jordan how things were 'back in our day.' However, it is anything but efficient.

We knew where to go for Lake of the Clouds, as we had been here several years ago. Eventually we hope to backpack the Escarpment Trail, but today it was 300 feet of boardwalk.

The view from the lower platform is stunning in its own right. If you look in the upper left of the photo below, you can see the upper viewing platform as well. 

The walk between viewing platforms is very scenic, and gives you a break between the hordes of people not even looking at the views.

The view of Summit Peak, the tallest of the Porkies at just a smidge under 2000ft.

Ok, minor rant incoming. At the upper viewing area, there is a bit of an unspoken protocol, as with almost every scenic natural attraction we have ever experienced. You take in the view, snap a few photos to capture the moment, then yield the area to the next visitors out of courtesy and awareness that there are more people visiting said attraction.

Tanktop bro was not interested in protocol. I waited patiently for well over 5 minutes before taking this, the first photo of their shenanigans. Each of his kids had a wrist rocket, which at first I respected. I hadn't seen one of those in actual use since my brothers and I were snapping the surgical tubing attempting to shoot rocks over the neighbor's house.

The issue - our sleeveless director had a specific movie shot in mind, which he carefully instructed each child the 45 steps of what he was looking for, then would review the video, critique, add some notes to the script, then repeat.

This was after at least take 7. The main problem I was having with this epic production was that at no point did any of them look at the Lake of the Clouds. Ever. This could have been shot in their driveway, or in the back seat of his Saturn, or in the parking lot of the local Hardee's (yes they still have those up here). Instead, it was happening here, and not only was Sun's out Guns out completely unaware of his surrounding and the line forming behind me, he was teaching these 2 kids how to be ignorant A-holes as well.

This entire experience made me think of this story  I'm sure this dude was using the scenic backdrop to get likes. That's all cool, I love a good Instagram-worthy shot as much as the next person. But did they even know where they were until after viewing the video? Ok, I believe I have driven everyone off my lawn again, on with the pics.

Looking back at the group of 25+ junior high kids that had been steamrolling their poor chaperone/counselor and not listening to anything he said. Jordan and Kimberly waiting patiently on the right.

Back at the top - Jordan's favorite activity, jumping on rocks. There were no rehearsals, walk throughs, or stage preparations for this photo.

You would need to enhance this photo several times to see it clearly, but in the distance on that peak in the center you can see the Copper Peak ski flying hill. The map says it is 20 miles as the crow flies.

The walk back to the parking lot. Everything is part of nature's playground.

With goal #1 accomplished, we set out to find a beach. There is accessible Lake Superior coastline all along the 107th Engineers Memorial Highway, but much of it is rocky shores, and we were after the full beach experience. Our very limited search from the visitors center wifi showed a public beach in nearby (that term takes on a new meaning up here - today it meant 25 miles) Ontonagon.

We could tell from the drive that the storm from a couple of days ago had really churned up the lake, every river mouth had turned Superior a nice shade of brown. When we arrived at the Ontonagon beach, this is what we saw.

One lonely swimmer collecting sediment in her suit. We were not down with this plan, so we headed back to try our luck at one of the roadside access points.

Then we discovered Green Park, a roadside county park that fit the bill perfectly.

Jordan had brought her Rocks & Minerals field guide (oh yeah, she is all in) and started collecting and classifying rocks.

We tested the water (STILL COLD), and then noticed that the wind was really picking up, leading to some choice waves.

Waves? You had to know this was coming... (RIP Bodhi)

We braved the water temps and made our way into the waves, having brought our trusty boogie boards we picked up in Outer Banks years ago.

This went on for what seemed like weeks, and for a while Jordan traded and gave me the smaller of the 2 boards. Kimberly immediately started laughing, bringing this scene to mind:

We were pretty exhausted, but still had 2 things on the agenda. Jordan was still fascinated by the Yooperlite hunting process, so we waiting until sundown and headed over to Union Beach. Conditions were pretty, pretty good.

Here you can see a little of what to look for. As it gets darker they really start to stand out.

One of the last ones we found before one of us became a mosquito feedbag.

We made it back to the Big Truck having beaten our quota. We were about to settle in for movie night when we realized tonight was prime viewing for the Perseid meteor shower. We were beat, but also knew that we would likely never be in these kind of conditions again - there is zero light pollution up here. We shuffled across the campground to the boat launch, which had the most unobstructed view of the sky. Our necks were getting stiff and I was becoming pretty skeptical. Then:

Now obviously I don't have the gear up here to take a photo like that, but this is precisely what we saw. I didn't know what to expect, so I was losing it every time I saw one because they looked like a comet! (It also secretly reminded me of watching the best cartoon/anime series of all time when I was a kid, Star Blazers and their quest to defend the universe against the great Comet Empire).

That concluded quite a full day, with a partial movie night to close it out. Tomorrow - travel day to Fayette State park as we make the turn toward home.

2020 Big Truck across the Upper Peninsula, Day 10

 Day 10 - the aftermath of the storm. 

We didn't really have a firm plan, but we knew we wanted to explore something new. We decided to head west and check out Copper Peak, billed as 'the only ski flying hill outside of Europe.' None of us were big ski flying buffs, but the idea of one of the largest and most unique sporting venues of its kind being in the remote western UP was intriguing, and it was only about an hour away. We stopped in the office/gift shop to get our tickets and check out some of the history.

You don't really understand the scale until the slow chairlift ride up - this is just to get to the base of the ramp.

As you walk toward the base of the elevator, you get a sense for how far back the cantilevered starting gate section goes. You can see the viewing platform at the top of the elevator section, then you have to choose to walk another 8 stories up the stairs to get to the very top.

Entering the elevator - here you definitely get a feel that this place has been frozen in time since 1994.

When you arrive at the top of the elevator journey, a right turn takes you to the viewing platform, a left takes you to this.

Seems a little more daunting from here than from on the ground.

Heights don't really bother me, but I will admit that walking up these grated stairs with the wind whipping through and feeling the platform sway a bit was enough to get my heart rate going.

I grabbed a video from the top to try to capture the view - hard to explain, but you can hear the wind pretty well.

Looking straight down the ramp gives a new appreciation for what these competitors must go through on every single attempt. Just getting off the bench to send it down the ramp must be a huge rush.

You knew this clip was coming, you had to.

Jordan on the medal stand. It could use a little updating.

I have to say if you're anywhere near this place, go check it out. It is such a mix of peculiar, fascinating, and historical that its well worth your time.

We were getting pretty hungry, so we decided to head into Ironwood for a late lunch. Seeing this mural on the side of a local building just about made me stop traffic - I needed this pic.

After striking out at 3 more destinations that claimed they were all open for business (including a brief foray into Wisconsin's 'famous' Silver Street neighborhood, apparently known for gambling, prostitution, and ignoring prohibition. Gotta have goals I guess...), we finally arrived at this place. Rigoni's Inn.

The interior was... interesting. We were trying to only support locally owned businesses on this trip, and this was no exception. Jordan enjoyed this nicely placed alcove in the wall next to our booth. 

We had our fill of everything but the plates being placed in the deep fryer, and it was amazing. I realized that we were only a half mile away from the Stormy Kromer production facility, and since I had scored my very own a few days prior in Calumet, I figured we'd swing past it. On the way, we saw this.

You are not allowed to read any further in this blog (not just today, ever) if you do not watch this next clip in its entirety and think of it every time you pass a log pile for the rest of your life. I feel like that is a reasonable request.

Just around the corner - Stormy Kromers for everyone.

From here, we had about an hour and a half back to the campsite, and we would be heading back through the Porcupine Wilderness State Park to do so, so we elected to revisit the Presque Isle River hike that we had done several years ago.

Waterfall backdrop glamour shot...

One of the unique things about this hike is this suspension bridge down by the river mouth. It feels somewhat out of place given the rugged, rustic feel of the trail, but it is a cool feature and really well built.

Also, it gives you this view. You can tell from the rapids that the runoff from yesterday's storm is already working its way into Lake Superior.

The view from the beach is pretty spectacular, so we had Jordan take a nice keepsake photo of the two of us.

Take 2:

Skipping some rocks...

More rocks...

Since we hadn't done enough yet, and I am wont to pack as many activities as possible into any given vacation day, we set out to find some Yooperlites.  Long story short - rock hobbyist decides to explore with a blacklight, discovers sodalite glows orange, finds a bunch of these rocks along the UP Lake Superior coastline, and a new sport is born.

We had a blast, and were somewhat successful. Jordan is hooked, and we will be doing this again tomorrow.

Very full day today, so we're cooked. Tomorrow - Lake of the Clouds, and hopefully a beach day.